The Commanders and their guests started this dinner as fellow members of the European Union with our French brethren.  Somewhere just after the dessert course and the Barsac, we parted company from the European Union and started our (i) descent into chaos or (ii) bold new world*.  

The Great John Street Hotel once again provided the intimate venue for this annual dinner where we aim to introduce potential new members to our organisation.  Guests cannot have failed to have been impressed with the food, the wines and the service.  31 commanders and 11 guests sat down after sampling the excellent Jacquart Brut Mosaic at the reception.

The starter was scallops with carrot crisps, pomegranate and Jerusalem artichoke.  These were expertly matched with the 2017 Chateau Beaumont les Pierrières.  The speaker of this first wine (allegedly une grand fromage in the Conservative Party), in between his strident views on Brexit, favoured the slight oaking in the Pierrières.  This was not, as he said, to everyone’s taste when sampling Bordeaux whites.  Certainly, on my table, the wine was well-received with the perfectly cooked scallops.  I think that the oaking, whilst not as oppressive as that inflicted by some of our antipodean friends, was subtle and works well.

Political punditry continued on my table with debate on the respective merits of the various contenders for the soon-to-be-vacant role of the leader of Her Majesty’s Opposition.  One candidate, it was contended, might be a suitable nominee for membership of our Commanderie.  As an erstwhile Mancunian corporate lawyer, it was suggested that Ms Long-Bailey was already eminently qualified to join our ranks.

Our main course was guinea fowl stuffed with wild mushroom and hazelnut, fondant sweet potato, crispy bacon and savoy cabbage with braised baby leeks and jus.  The guinea fowl was received with much interest as some had feared that it would be too light and delicate for the wine.  These fears proved unfounded; the Chateau Batailley 2005 was a good match and the meat stood up well to the challenge.  The bacon and cabbage combination (known as ‘Irish cabbage’ in some circles) worked well with the other vegetables.  Our table thought that the Batailley was early in its drinking window and it might be fun to try it again in another 10 years.  Now there’s a challenge for David Chapman’s purchasing and cellaring?  It was variously described as a classic Bordeaux with expressions of oak and cedar.  

The St John Street Hotel created a simple but perfect cheese collection for the second red wine with brie, gorgonzola dolce and smoked cheddar, ably accompanied by celery, fig, strawberry and physalis for a welcome splash of bright colour.  The gorgonzola was subtle, unassertive (I nicked that descriptor from a cheese website) and creamy; far from the expectations on first viewing.  The Chateau de Fonbel 2015 was a new experience for many of us, me included.  This wine worked well with the cheese, possibly its assertiveness assisted.  There were mumblings of cheese variation from somewhere in the masses, but these were sensibly dampened down by le Maître.

Some bin-ends were surreptitiously enjoyed by Commanders between courses. We sampled a 2009 Chateau La Grave Figeac St Emilion

Our dessert was a Blackberry cheesecake with gingerbread base.  This was cut perfectly and presented to a rare level of precision on our plates.  The wine with our dessert was a 2007 Chateau Coutet, an excellent end to the evening.  Its claimed creamy vanilla and spice bouquet was sympathetic to the cheesecake.

So, what did we learn from this dinner?  Life continued after 2300hrs (midnight CET) and our departure from the EU.  We now know that cheese variation is a thing.  Perhaps of greatest surprise, I have discovered cheese websites.  See you all on 3 April at the Manchester Hall.  Aprons optional.

* delete as applicable

THE MENU and WINES

Seared hand dived scallops, carrot crisps,

pomegranate, Jerusalem artichoke

Château Beaumont les Pierrières, 2017,

A.O.C. Blaye – Côtes de Bordeaux

Stuffed guinea fowl breast with wild mushroom and hazelnut, fondant sweet potato, crispy bacon and Savoy cabbage, braised baby leeks, jus

Château Batailley, 2005, 5ième Cru Classé, A.O.C. Pauillac

Great John Street cheese selection

Château de Fonbel, 2015, A.O.C. Saint-Emilion Grand Cru 

Blackberry cheesecake, ginger nut base

Château Coutet, 2007, 1ièr Cru Classé, A.O.C. Barsac

Commander Patrick Waterhouse