As we walked through the centre of Manchester towards Albert Square you could sense that something was afoot. There was something in the air, an anticipation that something was going to happen. Indeed, when we reached the top of King Street the anticipation had reached a state of excitement. Was it the start of the new Premier League season causing all the excitement – no it was the Summer Lunch of the Commanderie de Bordeaux a Manchester! The first face to face event since the start of the pandemic.
On arrival at the King Street Townhouse Hotel we were directed to the 6th floor and the South Terrace where the Champaign Reception took place against the back drop of the City Centre skyline. OK so it wasn’t Florence or Paris but it was enjoyable to see a view of Manchester very seldom seen. The Champagne, Jean de Foigny Brut Premier Cru NV, was an excellent aperitif as members met and reacquainted themselves with friends they had not seen for many months.
As members and their guests took a glass of Champagne into the dining area our newest member, Gerry Yeung, was preparing to be ‘intronised’. The simple ceremony whereby the Maitre, Peter Russell, presented Gerry with his ‘gong’ and certificate of membership and Gerry swore his allegiance to the wines of Bordeaux was a pleasant introduction to the afternoon’s procedures.
A glass of Chateau Reynon Blanc, 2019 was poured to accompany the first course of beetroot cured salmon, brown crab mayo, lemon gel, lotus crisp and cucumber pearl. With a mineral nose with hints of lemon the Sauvignon Blanc was an excellent accompaniment to the salmon which had been perfectly prepared. Overall, the wine was well received by the membership – albeit not as well received as the salmon course which was superb.
As the wonderfully presented main course of duck breast, picked shitake mushroom, dauphinoise potatoes, salt roast baby beetroot, chantenay carrot with jus was being served, generous measures of Chateau Gloria, 2009 were poured. The blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot and 5% each of Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot gave off a note of black currants, was lovely and rich on the palate. This full-bodied wine had a deep long finish of black berries and very well received by all concerned. Whether it was the wine that was perfect with the duck breast or the duck breast that was perfect with the wine is a matter of conjecture. However, both were excellent.
To accompany the King Street Townhouse cheese selection a lesser-known wine, Chateau Cambon La Pelouse 2015 was poured. It proved to be a revelation. Aromas of sweet black fruits greeted members followed by a rich medium bodied smooth mouthful of 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 41% Merlot and 4% Petit Verdot. Once again, the wine proved to be popular with all in attendance and an impressive quality of wine for its price.
With the afternoon’s procedures nearing the end the Electric Trio of raspberry & mascarpone tart, vanilla éclair and salted caramel cake were served and was paired with Chateau Doisy Verdines, 2009. The sumptuous Semillon based wine had a floral bouquet with notes of honey, was well balanced rich on the palate and oozed with tones of apricot and honey.
What promised to be a wonderful afternoon certainly lived up to expectations not only in the quality of food, which was impressive, and the standard of service which was excellent but also in the opulent wines which accompanied each course and the friendship and camaraderie which was evident around the room. Bring on the next event!
Colin Smith, Mâitre Elect
Photographs by the Editor and Commander Hywel Williams
