34 years ago, to the day, the inaugural dinner for the Commanderie de Bordeaux à Manchester was held at Manchester Town Hall. I suspect that the founding Commanders would have been delighted to witness the excellent turnout for the 34th anniversary at the Manchester Hall, our latest dining venue. For the occasion, Maître had been digging in the Commanderie archives and found the minutes and menu from that first meeting. Also discovered was very polite “thank you, but busy” from Her Majesty the Queen, who was invited to attend.
Our evening commenced with a champagne reception in the magnificent Great Hall. The champagne was Jean de Foigny.
On this special occasion, we were also delighted to intronise Ronnie Costello into the Commanderie. Cmdr Waterhouse recounted Ronnie’s many years’ experiences in food and wine societies and her extensive charity work to the audience and her membership was accepted wholeheartedly by the Commanderie..
Congratulations Ronnie!
The first course was oak smoked salmon, fennel, avocado cream, tobiko, coriander and pea shoots and was served with a Château Argadens Blanc, 2017 A.O.C Bordeuax from the Entre-deux-mers region. This wine is a blend of predominantly sauvignon blanc, with approximately one third semillon giving it a buttery-smooth texture and an oakiness that perfectly suited the first course. Delicious!
This was followed by the main course of pan-fried duck breast, broccoli purée, redcurrant sauce, roasted heritage carrots and fondant potato. Beautifully pink and exquisitely presented, this main course was exceptional. The accompanying wine was a Château Rauzan-Ségla 2009, 2ième Cru A.O.C Margaux and again, the pairing was impeccable. The wine is made up of 54% Cabernet Sauvignon, 41% Merlot and 4% Petit Verdot and French oak aged for 18 months. Medium-bodied with dense but supple tannins and rich berry fruits.
The cheese course of Cornish Yarg and Snowdonia Cheddar was also served with a 2009 vintage claret. Château Chasse-Spleen A.O.C Moulis-en-Medoc Cru Bourgeois is a wine that punches far above its weight, made up of 73% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot and 7% Petit Verdot, again aged for 18 months in oak. The wine displayed spicy black cherry flavours and as per the previous wine, abundant and well-integrated tannins. Both these wines showed what a special vintage 2009 was in Bordeaux. Some bottle-variation was noted of the Ch. Rauzan-Ségla but not of the Ch. Chasse-Spleen and both reds were extremely well received by the diners.
The dessert course was a lemon tart, with meringue, berry fruits, kumquat jam and raspberry jam. Served with a Château Clos Haut-Peyraguey 2014 1er Cru A.O.C Sauternes; a blend of 90% Semillon and 10% Sauvignon Blanc. This wine gave apricot and orange flavours which complimented the dessert but was felt to lack a little “oomph”.
The evening concluded with our customary toasts to the Commanderie and (despite her absence 34 years ago) The Queen.
Bordeaux, toujours Bordeaux!
Régent Adrian Bennett