The Commanderie de Bordeaux à Manchester returned to the Lake District for its biennial weekend of food, wine and relaxation in sumptuous surroundings plus a little outdoor exploring.
The guests were treated to a cream-tea on Friday afternoon, a welcome refreshment after the inevitable stop-start battle in the traffic of the M6.
For our first evening, the dinner was a more casual affair; “smart/casual” was the dress code, and this lent a very relaxed feel to the evening. The gentlemen were not required to wear a tie, although several Commandeurs took the opportunity to give the Commanderie tie an airing. One Commandeur even omitted his socks – And thus, Miami Windermere-Vice style has been brought to our Commanderie (I’m glad to say that there were no rolled-up sleeves on the jackets; one can have too much of a good thing).
Cmdr. Hodgkinson: Sartorial sophistication sans chaussettes
A “champagne” and canapés reception where Ch. Bauduc Blanc de Blancs 2019 Crémant de Bordeaux sparkling wine was served, allowed the diners to catch up with friends before heading into the beautiful dining room.
Our first course was smoked duck breast with pomegranate roast fig, orange and a soft leaf salad. This was served with Ch. Reynon 2016 A.O.C Bordeaux, a pure Sauvignon Blanc with citrus, lemon and lime on the palate: Medium bodied and not too acidic. A great combination to start the meal.
The main course was a poached chicken breast, black truffle mash, charred baby leek, king oyster mushroom and tarragon jus. Served with a Ch. d’Aiguilhe 2009 A.O.C Côtes de Castillon. This wine, from the excellent 2009 vintage, was a merlot dominant blend (70% merlot, 30% cabernet franc) full-bodied, plump with red fruits and well-balanced tannins. Everyone agreed that this wine was drinking well but would keep a little longer
The second red wine of the evening was in a different style; the Pontet-Canet 2004 5ième Cru A.O.C is considered a “classic” Pauillac. Black fruits, pencil lead and tobacco are present, but restrained, in this medium-bodied claret. It is considered a very good wine for the vintage. The vintage, however, is one that is overshadowed by 2003, 2005 and 2009 years. Nonetheless, the wine was very much enjoyed with the cheese course and demonstrated the huge variety of wines and styles that exist across Bordeaux not only by region but also by vintage
Dessert was a classic “STP” (Sticky Toffee Pudding) and ice cream: Wonderful. Paired with this ‘super-pud’ was a Ch. Raymond-Lafon 2014 A.O.C Sauternes. A blend of 85% Semillon and 15% Sauvignon Blanc gave orange and apricot with subtle honey sweetness: Quite light and not overly concentrated.
The following morning, once breakfast had been polished-off, our intrepid walkers set-off for a walk around Elterwater. The weather was overcast but the rain held off and lunch was enjoyed at The Eltermere Inn. A huge thank you to Cmdr. David Martin for organising, scouting and leading the walk; a weekend in The Lakes is not complete without some form of outdoor exploration!
Saturday evening’s events started with a wine-tasting session. Two whites, six reds and a sweet wine were available for the guests to sample. This was a lively and well-enjoyed tasting session!
Ch. La Gamaye Terres Blanches 2022
Ch. Pichon Bellevue Graves de Vayres 2020
Ch. Citran Haut-Médoc 2016
Ch. Puygueraud, Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux 2015
Ch. Clos des Prince St-Émilion Grand Cru 2018
Clos René Pomerol 2018
Ch. Sociando-Mallet 2010
Ch. Branaire-Ducru St-Julien 2010
Carmes de Rieussec 2011 (the second wine of Ch. Rieussec)
After a quick wash and brush-up, Commandeurs and guests returned in black-tie and full Commanderie Regalia for the evening dinner.
A glass of Gyéjacquot champagne and canapés once again greeted the diners on arrival, before being seated for the first of five courses.
Ch. Thieuley A.O.C Bordeaux Clairet (the historical origin of the word “claret”) 2022 was served with a pan-fried pigeon breast, golden beetroot, chicory and orange gel. This lighter Bordeaux red (70% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon) was served chilled and complimented the flavoursome starter course very well. An interesting alternative to the usual/expected white wine and great opportunity to try this style of Bordeaux.
The fish course comprised a sea bass fillet, Mediterranean couscous with a pepper coulis. This was served with a Les Deux Soeurs 18.19.20 A.O.C Bordeaux, an interesting blend of three vintages (each having a blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Sauvignon Gris and Semillon). The separate vintages were chosen to bring their own characteristics to the final wine. A good match with this course.
For the main course, a Ch. Quinault L’Enclos 2010 A.O.C St-Émilion Grand Cru Classé (a property owned by and the wine made by Ch. Cheval Blanc) accompanied a beautifully cooked braised ox cheek, dauphinoise potato, sautéed green beans, bacon and shallot in a red wine jus. The rich ox cheek and jus paired well with the merlot governed red (Merlot 70%, Cabernet Franc 20%, Cabernet Sauvignon 10%). Black cherry fruits, dark chocolate and not too tannic on the finish, this wine, from a very good vintage, has aged well and was very much enjoyed.
The cheese course was a Cumberland Farmhouse cheddar and a Kidderton Ash soft goat’s cheese served with grapes and quince jelly. The red wine was a Ch. La Lagune 5iéme Cru, A.O.C Haut-Medoc (Cabernet Sauvignon 60%, Merlot 25%, Petit Verdot 15%). A deeply purple wine: No smoke on the water but rather blueberries, cassis, oak all bound with sweet tannin giving a long, long finish. Super!
And finally, dessert! A lemon tart with blood orange sorbet, pink grapefruit curd and passion fruit meringue was served with a Ch. Rayne-Vigneau 2011 1ier Cru A.O.C Sauternes. The tartness of the lemon and sweetness of the meringue was perfect with the honeyed Sauternes. 2011 being an excellent year for Sauternes, this sweet wine was balanced, smooth and lingered in the mouth. A great finish to an exceptional meal.
Ex-Maître Peter Russell was called upon to perform the ceremonial duties for the weekend and he thanked the chef and front-of-house team for their Herculean efforts over the whole weekend. Many thanks to him for stepping in at late notice.
The evening was ended with a Toast to The King and our beloved Bordeaux.
Bordeaux, toujours Bordeaux!
