Informal bistro dinner with two excellent reds which divided opinion…
52 Commanders and guests sat down for the annual bistro dinner at Manchester’s King Street Townhouse Hotel.
As the diners arrived, they were met with a glass of The Wine Society’s Alfred Gratien Champagne which attracted favourable comment. Fermented in small oak casks and given generous bottle ageing, it shows great depth of flavour and class. Fermentation is in small oak casks, which are bought second-hand from the Chablisienne cooperative in Chablis. Each cru is vinified apart and such is Gratien’s reputation that they are able to buy grapes from top producers and from choice grand and premier cru villages.
The evening formally kicked off with the intronisation of 2 new members, Mark Redman and Keith Barlow. The Maître, no doubt to some relief of many present, explained that neither new member was a lawyer. Their professional and social backgrounds were introduced to the diners by retired Judge and solicitor, Commander Appleby.
The starter of smoked salmon with crispy capers and a lemon & dill crème fraiche dressing was perfectly complemented by the Ch D’Arche 2022 Bordeaux Blanc. One table said that this wine had good length, good fruit and was a good choice. Its barrel ageing was more apparent prior to combining with the salmon.
The first red of the evening, a Ch. Malartic-Lagraviere 2014 Grand Cru Classé de Graves AOC, was said by many members to be the highlight of the evening. There was some bottle variation and even one corked bottle. One table reported that this wine was robust. One table, having struggled with the corked bottle, consumed a further 3 bottles “in the interests of science”. One bottle even attained the pinnacle of vinothèque hyperbole. It was, apparently, “very nice”. One diner says that this red was outstanding, with much fruit in the nose - definitely blackcurrants and strawberries. The food to accompany this wine was superbly done by the KSTH kitchen. Beef fillet with peppercorn sauce was served with celeriac purée, fondant potato, honey glazed carrots with a topping of crispy shallots on the potato. This was a superb complement to the wine.
We visited Ch. Malartic-Lagravière in May 2006 when we had dinner hosted by M. Bonnie's parents and again in May last year when he hosted us for dinner. Our enjoyment of this wine followed our successful Ch. Malartic-Lagraviere dinner last November. This wine is matured for 22 months in 50-70% new oak. It is a blend of 52% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc and 3% Petit Verdot.
The evening’s second red, Ch Haut-Batailley 2009 5eme Cru Classé AOC Pauillac, divided opinion. For some, probably a minority, it was the highlight of the evening. For many though, it disappointed. Comments on this wine suggested that it was “drinkable”. The second red was served with cheeses, a brie and a cheddar, that were accompanied by chutney, crackers and grapes.
This wine is described by its growers as, “harmonious, an elegant wine with a fine tannic structure and will develop even more complexity and depth over time.”
Accompanying our final course, the lemon cheesecake dessert, was a Sauternes from Ch. Carmes de Rieussec (2017). It was light, clean and, to one table, “a delightful drop”. The wine has been matured in oak barrels for up to 18 months. It is a blend, predominantly made from Sémillon, with contributions from Sauvignon Blanc and Muscadelle.
The Maître complimented the excellent food and service from the King Street team for their accuracy and dedication which he said is not available everywhere. His comments were agreed by his fellow diners. The room, ambience, food and service at KSTH are excellent and we look forward to returning for our Summer lunch on 13 July when hopefully the weather will allow use of the excellent terrace.
With thanks to Cmmdr Chapman for some helpful information on the Chateaux.
Commander Waterhouse