The Commanderie returned to the Lindeth Howe hotel for its biennial weekend away. The covid pandemic and Brexit have made the two years since we were last here seem much longer indeed and I’m sure we were all glad to be back here with friends, once again.
The informal Friday evening commenced with a reception where The Wine Society’s Saumur Rosé Brut NV was enjoyed before progressing into the dining room for the plentiful four course meal.
The starter of “re-invented Waldorf salad” was beautifully presented and complemented by the Chateau Bel Air Perponcher Réserve 2020 rosé. This delicate starter was followed by a substantial pork-cutlet with mustard and bacon mashed potatoes, roast cabbage, balsamic red onion and a sage & onion granola. The size of this main course was a little overbearing for many of the diners, but the flavour of the cutlet and the roast vegetables combined beautifully with the excellent Chateau Cantemerle 2005, Haut Medoc. This wine was almost unanimously voted the wine of the evening; smooth tannins and well-balanced aromas of cigar-box and blackcurrant abounded.
After an unusual lemon and raspberry macaron came the cheese course and the success of the first red of the evening rather overshadowed the next. Even so, The Chateau Perron “La Fleur” 2010, Lalande de Pomerol was a good pairing with the Eden Valley Brie and due to the unique storage in Commander Smith’s garage, exuded aromas of Chaine de Velo and Chausseurs de course!
On to the dessert, a favourite of mine (and many of the other diners too) sticky toffee pudding. This was served with Chateau Rayne Vigneau 2009, 1er Cru Sauternes. The honey syrup and marmalade flavours were superb with the sticky toffee (see photo evidence!) and led nicely into the petit fours and coffees. A lively and highly enjoyable evening.
Adey was a bit late with the camera!!!
After fuelling with a hearty breakfast, the intrepid members of the group met at Elterwater for walks organised by Commander David Martin. The weather held but congestion in the local pubs led the groups to divide-and-conquer in order to gain refreshment! Many thanks once again to Commander Martin for organising the walks, even going so far as to personally route-checking them in the weeks running up to the event.
Not quite up to Lindeth Howe standard!
The usual Saturday wine tasting was very much anticipated by all, and Commander Chapman had put together a great variety. The tasting-trail progressed as set out below (notes kindly provided by Commander Chapman). All the wines were enjoyed, particularly the white and the final three reds, all from excellent vintages, in particular the Chateau Gaillard St Emilion Grand Cru 2010 was very well received.
Saturday evening’s meal was the usual black-tie event which opened with a reception of Jean de Foigny Brut Premier Cru NV Champagne and canapés.
The seven-course meal commenced with a cauliflower panna cotta followed by a ham-hock terrine with pickled cauliflower. Both the courses were accompanied by a Chateau Bauduc Bordeaux Rosé 2020. The flavours in both the courses worked well with the wine; in particular, the ham and pickles and brioche.
Next came the fish course, a cured and torched mackerel with wasabi and horseradish. The wine with this course was a G de Chateau Guiraud Bordeaux blanc 2019. Some of the diners commented that the wine was excellent with the fish alone but felt it conflicted a little with the wasabi.
The main course dish was a beautiful veal fillet with pearl barley-risotto, onion and beer purée and tender stem broccoli. This was served with a Chateau Haut-Batailley 2009 5ième cru Pauillac. The pairing was superb with the soft, balanced flavours of berries and oak complementing the food perfectly. Wonderful!
The second red of the evening was served with the cheese course. A Chateau Citran Haut Medoc 2016. The wine, from an outstanding vintage (perhaps the best in recent times) was bold and tannic; well-rounded and showing well already. Many of the diners felt that the wine would improve further with age and keep for many years. It went extremely well with the Mrs Kirkham’s Lancashire Cheese and was a real treat to try.
For those diners still able to continue, a pina colada, passion fruit marshmallow with pineapple sorbet was the first of the desserts, closely followed by a mixed-berry pavlova with berry gel and blueberry parfait. Both the desserts were served with a Chateau Doisy-Védrines 2ième Cru Barsac 2014, and whereas the previous evening’s sweet wine was honey-syrup and bold-marmalade, this was light and fragrant with fresh citrus and lychee. Both sweet wines suited their respective desserts very well.
All that was left to do was for Maître to perform his final duty before handing over “le baton” at the Midland Dinner. The Chefs and waiting staff were thanked for their culinary excellence and superb-service in the usual manner with gifts of Bordeaux wines.
A good night’s sleep had been well-earned by all: The following morning’s breakfast was accompanied by the usual “liquid-sunshine” that frequents the Lake District, but it wasn’t to dampen our spirits after an excellent weekend of catching up with friends, outdoor activities, fine dining, and a welcome dose of normality.
Many thanks to Commanders David Chapman, Richard Martindale and Nicola McLoughlin for their hard efforts in organising the weekend.
Adey Bennett
Régent
The tasting progressed as follows (notes kindly provided by Commander Chapman):
2017 Ch. Reynon Blanc, Bordeaux A.O.C.
Fresh and fragrant 100% Sauvignon Blanc, part fermented in large oak vats which round out the fruit without imparting oak flavour, from specialists the Dubourdieu family owners of Clos Floridene and Châteaux Doisy-Daëne and Cantegril (both in Barsac).
2012 “Madame”, Ch. de Pitray, Castillon - Côtes de Bordeaux A.O.C.
Castillon to the East of St-Emilion makes some excellent under-the-radar wines. This wine is the premium cuvée – a selection from the best grapes and parcels - and is made from 60% Merlot, 38% Cabernet Franc and 2% Malbec. The malolactic fermentation takes place in barrels. After fermentation the Merlot is aged for 18 months in new French oak barrels whilst the other grapes are kept in stainless steel vats to preserve their freshness.
2014 Ch. Des Tourtes, Blaye - Cotes de Bordeaux A.O.C.
This wine is from a family-owned estate near to the right bank of the Gironde estuary. It is made from 70% Merlot and 30% Cabernet Sauvignon. The grapes are 100% destemmed before maceration on the skins for 20 days at 28-30°C with temperature-controlled fermentation followed by malolactic fermentation and aging for 6 months in stainless-steel tanks.
2013 Ch. Fourcas-Dupré, Listrac A.O.C.
Listrac lies in the Médoc to the west of Margaux. The soils are more complex than they are along the edge of the Gironde, where gravel rules. Here too there is gravel, but also clay and limestone. The vineyard is planted with 44% Cabernet Sauvignon, mainly on gravel, 44% Merlot, on sandy clay or clay and limestone, 10% Cabernet Franc, also found mainly on the gravel, and finally 2% Petit Verdot. The élevage is in oak barriques, one-third new, one-third second fill, one-third third fill and the wine remains in barrel for 12 months before fining and bottling.
2015 Ch. Les Roches de Ferrand, Fronsac A.O.C.
The wines of Fronsac (to the West of St-Emilion) also fly under-the-radar. This is a family vineyard situated on the highest plateau of limestone of Fronsac and is planted with 80% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon. Separate parcels are vinified in temperature-controlled steel vats. Maceration is for 15 to 30 days depending on the berries’ quality. Aged for 18 months, including 12 in French oak barrels (20% new) .
2015 Ch. Cambon La Pelouse, Haut-Médoc A.O.C.
This estate in now one of only 14 Crus Bourgeois Exceptionnels. It is located on the outskirts of Macau, one of the communes that sits between the city of Bordeaux to the south, and the great appellations of the Médoc to the north. The vineyard of 39 hectares is planted as to 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 41% Merlot and 4% Petit Verdot. Once picked, the fruit is sorted by hand over vibrating tables and it then goes into the winery and into 32 temperature-controlled stainless-steel tanks of varying sizes. After fermentation the wine sees 12-15 months on the lees in barrel, (35% new oak, 50% 1 year old, the rest 2 years old). The wines are made with consultation from our Grand Maître, Hubert de Boüard.
2010 Ch. Gaillard, St-Emilion Grand Cru A.O.C.
Situated in the hamlet of St. Hippolyte on the plateau to the East of the town is this property of 20 hectares which is planted with 70% Merlot and 30% Cabernet Franc vines with an average age of 50 years. The vinification takes place in concrete tanks and the ageing in oak barrels some of which are new oak. Because of the avoidance of the use of pesticides, weedkiller and other such chemicals in the vineyard, the property holds the designation of “Vins Biologique”.
2009 Domaine du Noble, Loupiac A.0.C.
This appellation for sweet wine lies on the right bank of the River Garonne opposite those of Barsac and Sauternes using the same grape varieties and methods but is much less well-known. The estate is 15 hectares with 90% Semillon and 10% Sauvignon Blanc planted with an average age of 40 years. The wine ages well and gives notes of beeswax and lemon.
