Despite a stormy Friday evening in Manchester there was an excellent turnout for a grand gathering at the Midland Hotel in the beautiful Trafford Suite. Guests were welcomed with a delightful glass of Champagne from the Wine Society made by Alfred Gratien.
This was a very special occasion for the Commanderie de Bordeaux à Manchester as we were joined by some very distinguished guests. Along with the Vinothecaire of Edinburgh and Maîtres of London and the oldest UK Commanderie, Bristol, we were delighted that Commandeur Jean-Marc Dulong, a Board Council Member of the Grand Conseil du Vin de Bordeaux, who also currently works for Château du Tertre, was able to attend and lead the ceremonies. Firstly, he appointed Maître Peter Russell as Maître Emérite and, having thanked him for his service, he then installed Commander Colin Smith as our new Maître.
Jean-Marc gave a warm and heartfelt speech, and he was presented with a Commanderie de Bordeaux à Manchester bowtie as a small token of our thanks.
We were also grateful for the presence of Jennifer Mathieu, Directrice of the Crus Bourgeois du Medoc and Brinda Bourhis , Managing Director of WINEVOX, and Jean-Pierre Darmuzey, Director of Château Castera, where we had a wonderful tour, wine tasting and lunch in May 2018.
Both Peter and Colin were presented with commemorative Diplomas and Peter joined our Maîtres Emérites, Commander Sir Netar Mallik and Commander Don Hammond who were also present at the ceremony.
Dinner started with a lightly roasted scallop, crispy chicken thigh, and crispy chicken skin on a spelt barley risotto, served in a scallop shell. This perfectly executed dish was paired with a Ch. Doisy-Daëne Blanc Sec 2019 Bordeaux, which initially was a little cold, but after a short time in the glass, warmed and the 100% sauvignon blanc was dry with peach-fruit without being tart or overly acidic. The food and wine combination was excellent, and the Chef has to be congratulated for producing such a technically difficult dish for so many people.
The main course was a rare roast loin of venison, with fondant potato, pancetta and sticky red cabbage. This flavoursome and elegant main course was served with Ch. Gruaud-Larose 2005 2ième Cru Classé, St. Julien. Much was anticipated of this wine, from a superb vintage; the tannins were soft and the wine smooth; the berry-flavours were slightly restrained, leaving a leather and cigar-box aroma. Again, time in the glass helped the wine evolve and it was also noted that there was much bottle-variation, which is to be expected of older vintages.
Our second red of the evening was served with the cheese course: The Ch. Ormes de Pez 2009 St. Estèphe, (70% Cabernet Sauvignon with Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot making up the remainder). This wine, from another excellent vintage, paired well with the Comté and was smooth with ripe tannins and mulberry-fruits. A superb wine that was very well received.
The dessert course was an orange tart with raspberry sponge, almond crumble, and clotted cream. This was served with a Ch. Sigalas-Rabaud 2007 1èr Cru Classé, Sauternes. This intensely sweet and rich wine paired well with the orange crémeux (perhaps less well with the slightly salted-pastry) and was well received by the diners.
Maître Colin Smith thanked the Head Chef, Brian Spark and the Front of House team with our traditional gifts of Bordeaux wine and this memorable evening concluded.
The Commanderie de Bordeaux à Manchester would like to thank all who attended the dinner, especially our friends from Bordeaux; we are all very aware of how difficult international travel is at present and their presence was very much appreciated and made the evening the success that it was. Maître Colin Smith commented, in his opening speech as Maître, that there are certain occasions that stand out in one’s life, and I think it’s fair to say that this event was one of those!
Wishing all our members a merry Christmas and a happy and prosperous New Year – Bordeaux, toujours Bordeaux!
Adrian Bennett
Regent